Settling In

The following day, Friday November 27, I left my village for my assigned site, settling in as the first Peace Corps volunteer for the local self-government unit in the community. This community however, has had previous volunteers working at the primary schools in the municipality. I was fortunate enough to get a choice between a high-rise building apartment and a single family home with the second floor modified to enable an independent entry and bath and kitchenette. I chose the recommended home. As far as creature comforts go, living in Macedonia is very comfortable, most homes are equipped with many labor saving devices, and have a continuous source of electricity, indoor plumbing and broadband! All I have to figure out is which internet package to subscribe to, a couple of labor saving devices for the kitchen, as it comes with a refrigerator, stove an oven. I am set.
As a PCV, I am still unable to comprehend the necessity of a continuous internet connection. Yes everyone in Macedonia is connected, so it is understandable that it is not a luxury. Though I have my laptop to journal as well as to blog, I decided not to get a connection and spend those evening hours in the community instead of on the internet. Learning to cook for one (just myself) is difficult after raising a family especially as memories of cooking for myself during college and before marriage colored my vision. The first and the easiest item I have settled on is the boiled whole-wheat grain cereal I wrote about earlier – simple, yet a good whole grain bread substitute doubling up as a breakfast cereal. Albeit it takes longer to cook than the cereal in a box, it is far more satisfying and very nutritious. With the availability of a wide array of vegetables, vegetable soup with cabbage as the mainstay is my next choice. Both can be made in quantity, once every few days. I have not yet found whole wheat flour in the local store – may need to pick it up when in Skopje. I hope to make chappatis, poories and paratha on weekends to have with yogurt and other Indian style vegetables.
Shopping will be at the small vendor stands and at the local “prodavnitsa”. There is no word to distinguish between a small neighborhood grocery store with a medium sized store or a supermarket, other than calling it “malo” (small) and “golemo” (big). The main store in town is a medium sized, split-level store grocery, hardware and clothing store. The grocery section is on the main floor and the mezzanine with clothing and household dry goods. Below the mezzanine is a hardware store that also included household appliances, such as stoves, washing machines, refrigerators etc.
Prem’s presence also blunted the shock of living alone and made settling in easy for me. He will know understand my ramblings about my place now that he has seen the beautiful mountainous region my house is in. Friday evening, we not only ate with my landlady, but also met her extended family.
The next day, we walked about and purchased fruits and vegetables and odds and ends not only at the ‘prodavnitsa’ but also at the small neighborhood shops.Gave me an opportunity to introducing myself as a new resident of the town. Though there were big gaps in language, we understand each other and giving a nice feeling of getting along and being welcomed. Along with our purchases we were also offered refreshments at the small shops, reminiscent of shopping in stores in India. Lunch with my colleague was scrumptious with a variety of traditional Macedonian dishes– local trout lightly battered and fried; palachinka (crepes, layered with serenje; burek (flaky pie filled with cheese); sarma (cabbage leaves stuffed with rice and meat); fresh baked white bread; ajvar (pepper-paprika relish) to name a few. Served with home made sour cherry compote and topped with a variety of desserts, including baklava!
Later that evening, we had another round of hospitality at my landlady’s home with freshly baked hot ‘tikva’ a squash similar to pumpkin and used by other volunteers to make pumpkin pie! It was too late in the day for setting up my landline telephone – internet connection so we left it for later. A common expression in Macedonia is “ima vreme” there is time!
Soon it was Sunday and after breakfasting on the whole grain cereal, it was time for Prem to leave! It was only 9:50 am. As he departed by taxi, I left for a walk, because I couldn’t imagine what I’d do alone inside my house! It was a lovely day with blue skies dotted with white clouds. I walked about for 2 hours, across town and finally on an open road to the next village. I greeted everyone, including a few people in their yards or out hanging out the laundry. A couple people knew where I was staying and seeing their faces light up when I said hello made it easier to keep at it, even as I met a few who gave me blank stares.
On my return I washed my clothes for the first time since I came to Macedonia, as my host Mom always took care of laundry back at the village. I have no working washing machine – which is not a problem, yet when my landlady saw me hanging my wet clothes on the line, she insisted that I go down and use her washing machine the next time I wash. Hanging clothes to dry in the sun gives them a nice crisp feel.
At about 2 pm, I met my language tutor and to my delight soon to be walking partner. Both of us need the exercise and just as I need a partner to motivate me to get up, get dressed and go out every day – rain or shine for a walk, so does she. On my return after walking her halfway home, my landlady was waiting for me to take me along to visit her friends. It was a busy Sunday and I am off to bed.